Chronicles of a Southern Sojourn: Li Zhongjue’s Observations of Late 19th-Century Singapore

Introduction

In 1887 (the 13th year of the Guangxu reign), Li Zhongjue, a scholar from Shanghai, traveled to Singapore to visit his old friend Zuo Binglong, who was serving as the Chinese Consul. During his month-long stay, Li meticulously recorded the geography, politics, economy, and social fabric of the island, eventually publishing Xingjiapo Fengtuji (The Customs of Singapore) in 1895. This work stands as a vital historical bridge, capturing Singapore at a peak of colonial prosperity while foreshadowing the social complexities of the era.

Geography and the "Pearl of the Seas"

Li describes Singapore’s strategic location at the tip of the Malay Peninsula, likening it to a "pearl under the chin of a black dragon". He notes the island is shielded by Sumatra, Java, and Borneo, creating a natural harbor unparalleled by other islands in the South Seas. Divided by a central river into "Greater Plain" (South) and "Lesser Plain" (North), the island’s topography consisted of low hills and dense tropical forests.

Governance and the British Administration

The British established a comprehensive administrative hierarchy, including the Governor, Colonial Secretary, and various specialized departments. Li highlights the legal system, where the "Protector of Chinese" (護衞司) ostensibly looked after Chinese interests but often proved obstructive. Notably, Singapore operated as a free port with no import or export duties, except for heavy taxes on opium and alcohol, which were the primary sources of government revenue.

A Melting Pot of People

Li observed five categories of residents: Chinese, Europeans, Malays (Native), Americans, and "Easterners" (Indians, Burmese, Siamese). Among these, the Chinese were the most numerous, estimated at nearly 100,000. He notes the cultural shifts among the local-born Chinese (Baba/Nyonya), who often adopted Malay dress and language, leading to a "loss of original essence" in the eyes of the Qing scholar.

Economy, Trade, and Social Issues

Singapore served as a transshipment hub rather than a producer of raw materials, with pepper and gambier being the primary commodities. The wealth gap was stark; while some Chinese merchants amassed fortunes of tens of millions, the "native" populations lived in poverty. Li also sheds light on darker social realities:

• The "Piglet" Trade: The exploitation of Chinese laborers (coolies) who were often tricked or kidnapped into service.

• Opium Addiction: Despite its high cost due to taxation, opium use was rampant among the poor, consuming their meager earnings.

• Secret Societies: The rise of "Dangerous Societies" (Triads) with over 56,000 members, which Li viewed as a threat to social stability.

Cultural and Modern Infrastructure

Li marveled at the modern infrastructure, including iron bridges, gas lighting, and the nascent museum containing exotic specimens like 10-foot pythons and human-faced fish. He praised the cleanliness of Western hospitals compared to the cramped conditions in China but noted the cultural fear Chinese people felt toward Western medical practices.

Conclusion

Li Zhongjue concluded that while Singapore appeared to be at the height of its prosperity, the moral decay—characterized by fraud and the loss of tradition—indicated a potential decline. His account remains a poignant reflection on the intersection of British colonial expansion and the resilient, yet embattled, Chinese diaspora.