2025年3月27日 星期四

配給歲月:英倫戰時之食與忍

 

配給歲月:英倫戰時之食與忍

第二次寰宇大戰,翻天覆地,英倫之食供與民之食 consumption 皆歷巨變。德意志潛艇肆虐於洋,歐陸諸國淪陷敵手,故英廷不得不施峻策,以養民生,糧食部應運而生。其最著者,莫過於配給之制也。

初之拮据:豕肉、白糖、牛乳

配給之始,在一九四〇年正月,首限燻肉、火腿、牛乳、白糖之供。此數物者,或仰賴舶來,或出於稀少之畜產,故先受其限。首相邱吉爾嘗言,廣行配給,非因饑饉之虞,乃為節省舶來之貨,增益軍需之產,維持貿易之盈,以資戰事。時人謂之「敢為與忍耐」之時,配給遂被視為公平之策,以使有限之資,皆用於克敵制勝。

羅網漸廣:何物亦受限?

初限數物,僅為開端。戰事綿延,物資益匱,列入配給之物,亦日漸增多。如肉、酪、人造奶油、卵、牛乳、茶、朝食穀物、稻米、餅乾等,皆在其列。至一九四二年仲夏,幾所有食之物,皆受配給之限,唯鮮蔬、瓜果、魚、麵包等物,尚可倖免。然不配給者,亦難保其充足。他如衣履、燃料、皂莢等物,亦皆施行配給之制。

分而食之:民人各得幾何?

每人所得之配給量,時有變更,亦或因年齡、職業而異。重體力勞動者,其量較常人為多;稚子之量雖少,然脂膏與蛋白質之比例則較高。孕婦與哺乳之婦,亦得較多牛乳及畜產之物。考一九四五年四月之例,庶人每週所得約略如下:

燻肉火腿:四盎司(一百一十三克)

肉:依銀錢之數,約當五百四十克

白糖:八盎司(二百二十七克)

酪:二盎司(五十七克)(素食者可增三盎司)

牛乳:二盎司(五十七克)

人造奶油:四盎司(一百一十三克)

豬油:二盎司(五十七克)

糖果:三盎司(八十四克)

卵:每週一枚(素食者二枚),或每月一包卵粉(約當卵十二枚)

另有罐頭與乾貨之點數制,每四周可得二十四點。

食案清減:配給與常膳之異

戰時配給之膳,與戰前常膳大相逕庭。如茶之飲用,尚可相仿,然肉、酪、牛乳、卵之攝入,則大為減少。反之,人造奶油與豬油之用量則增。糧食部力倡多食未配給之物,尤以胡蘿蔔為甚,其易於栽種,且富含維生素A。時人重在均衡飲食,攝取必需之維生素。總體而言,糧食配給反倒改善了國民之健康,減輕了戰前社會各階層間飲食之不均。

應對與巧思:配給之下的生活

庶民百姓,各出奇招以應配給之制。糧食部頒布食譜與傳單,鼓勵巧用配給與未配給之物。有閒暇者,則排隊以購未配給之食;居於鄉野者,則常以兔肉及當地之物補給。若有相熟之雜貨商與肉販,則或可得額外之物或較好之肉品。然奔波於外者,則難以依此制而行。雖有諸多不易,配給之制終使國人免於饑餓,此與他國多有不同。民怨多在於膳食之單調乏味。婦人素掌家事與烹飪,於有限之食材中,竭力調製可口之食,且需耗時排隊,其勞甚矣。

彼時有名之乾卵,乃舶來之濃縮食品,雖糧食部力圖推廣,然幾乎無人不厭之。民人亦響應「掘地求勝」之號召,將公園與私家園圃闢為菜地,以自給自足。

陰影之市:黑市如何運作

雖有官方之配給制,然黑市於戰時英倫亦甚囂塵上。此等私下交易,可使人無需票券或點數,即可買賣配給之物,然其價往往甚高。黑市雖可得稀缺之物,然被視為不忠不義之舉。曾有雜貨商因哄抬物價而險遭群毆,地方自衛隊亦會於疑似不法之店鋪前示威。

戰事有別?配給與權貴

配給之制,從非「一視同仁」。雖王室亦有配給券,特殊需求者亦有所調整,然富者可於酒肆享用未配給之食。此使彼輩之膳食,較仰賴配給與少量未配給之庶民,更為多樣。戰事數月,富人仍可享用奢華之宴。然隨著物資日漸匱乏,以及某種程度上之民族團結意識之影響,即使富者亦漸趨儉樸。

首相之食:配給及於丘吉爾乎?

首相丘吉爾雖支持配給之制,然其個人所受之影響,或因其地位與資源而有所減輕。雖理論上亦受配給之限,然統領戰事之重任,需其飲食恆常充足。丘吉爾可得官方之膳食供應,且為維持其健康與精力以領導戰事,或使其免於庶民所受之嚴苛限制。觀其演講,可知其所重者,乃糧食管制於國家戰事之戰略意義,而非其個人之食飲約束也。

Life on the Ration: How Britain Ate and Endured in Wartime

 

Life on the Ration: How Britain Ate and Endured in Wartime

The Second World War brought a revolution to the supply and consumption of food in Britain. With imports threatened by German U-boats and the occupation of Europe, the government, through the Ministry of Food, was forced to take drastic measures to feed the nation. One of the most significant of these was the introduction of rationing.

The Initial Pinch: Meat, Sugar, and Butter

Rationing began in January 1940 with the initial limitations placed on bacon, ham, butter, and sugar. These were among the first foodstuffs rationed because they were either heavily imported or came from scarce animal sources. As Churchill explained, this widespread system of rationing was implemented not due to a danger of famine, but to save every ton of imports, increase munitions output, and maintain export trade to fund the war effort. It was a time to "dare and endure," and rationing was seen as a fair way to ensure that limited resources were directed towards victory.

The Widening Net: What Else Was Rationed?

The initial rationing of a few key items was just the beginning. As the war progressed and shortages persisted, more foodstuffs were added to the list. These included meat, cheese, margarine, eggs, milk, tea, breakfast cereals, rice, and biscuits. By mid-1942, most foodstuffs were rationed, with the notable exceptions of fresh vegetables, fruit, fish, and bread. However, the fact that something was not rationed did not guarantee its availability. Other scarce commodities beyond food, such as clothing, shoes, fuel, and soap, were also rationed.

Portioning the Nation: How Much Could Each Get?

The amount of each rationed food varied over time and sometimes depended on classifications according to age and profession, with heavy labourers receiving larger rations than other adults, and children receiving smaller amounts but relatively higher proportions of fats and proteins. Nursing and expectant mothers also received larger allotments of milk and other animal-source foods. A comparison from April 1945 provides a glimpse into weekly allowances for an average adult:

  • Bacon and ham: 4 oz (113 g)
  • Meat: Monetary allowance equating to approximately 540g
  • Sugar: 8 oz (227 g)
  • Cheese: 2 oz (57 g) (Vegetarians allowed an extra 3 oz)
  • Butter: 2 oz (57 g)
  • Margarine: 4 oz (113 g)
  • Lard: 2 oz (57 g)
  • Sweets: 3 oz (84 g)
  • Eggs: 1 egg per week (Vegetarians allowed two) or 1 packet of egg powder (equivalent to 12 eggs) per month

There was also a points system for tinned and dried food, with an allocation of 24 points for a 4-week period.

A Leaner Table: Rationed vs. Normal Diet

The wartime diet under rationing was significantly different from a normal pre-war diet. While some items like tea consumption remained similar, the intake of meat, cheese, butter, and eggs was substantially reduced. Conversely, the consumption of margarine and lard increased. The Ministry of Food actively promoted the consumption of unrationed items like vegetables, especially carrots, which were easy to grow and a source of vitamin A. The emphasis was on a balanced diet with essential vitamins, and overall, food rationing improved the nation’s health by reducing the imbalances that were significantly present prior to the outbreak of the war between social classes.

Coping and Creativity: Life Under Rationing

Ordinary people coped with rationing in various ways. The Ministry of Food issued recipe books and leaflets to encourage creative use of rations and unrationed ingredients. People with time would queue up for unrationed foods, and those in the countryside often supplemented their rations with rabbits and other locally available food. Having a dedicated grocer and butcher to whom one was registered could offer advantages, with favoured customers sometimes receiving extra or better cuts. However, those with mobile occupations faced difficulties with this system. Despite the challenges, the rationing system ensured that, unlike many other countries, the population did not go hungry. Complaints were more about the dreariness and lack of variety in the wartime diet. Women, traditionally responsible for housekeeping and meals, bore the main burden of making appetising meals from limited ingredients and endured the time-consuming task of queuing.

The infamous dried egg, an imported concentrated food, was almost universally disliked despite Ministry of Food attempts to popularise it. People also engaged in "Dig for Victory" campaigns, turning parks and private gardens into allotments to grow their own food.

The Shadow Economy: How the Black Market Operated

Despite the official rationing system, a black market thrived in wartime Britain. This clandestine trade allowed people to buy and sell rationed articles without coupons or points, often at inflated prices. The black market could provide access to scarce goods but was seen as unpatriotic and unethical. There were instances of grocers being nearly lynched for overcharging, and local defence leagues picketed shops suspected of malpractice.

A Different War? Rationing and the Elite

The rationing system was never truly "one size fits all". While the Royal Family also had ration books and adjustments were made for special needs, the rich could eat unrationed food in restaurants. This allowed them to maintain a more varied diet compared to ordinary citizens who were largely reliant on their rations and available unrationed goods. There were even instances of luxurious dinners enjoyed by the wealthy months into the war. However, austerity increasingly became the norm even for those who could afford more, as supplies dwindled and a sense of national solidarity, to some extent, influenced consumption.

Churchill's Plate: Did Rationing Reach the Top?

While Churchill, as Prime Minister, supported the rationing system, the impact on him personally was likely mitigated by his position and access to resources. Although he would have been subject to rationing in theory, the demands of leading the war effort would have necessitated a consistent and adequate diet. Churchill's access to official catering and the need to maintain his health and energy for leadership would have likely shielded him from the full stringencies faced by the average citizen. His focus, as evidenced by his speeches, was on the strategic importance of food control for the nation's war effort rather than his personal dietary constraints.

戰時食肆:京華酒肆何以存乎困境

 

戰時食肆:京華酒肆何以存乎困境

第二次寰宇大戰之際,英倫民生百業皆受波及,京華(倫敦)食肆亦不能倖免。糧食部之策,嚴控物資,釐定物價,國人皆尚儉樸,酒樓飯館遂臨前所未有之困厄。然私營之業,其生命力頑強,或變通,或出新,竟能於斯時維繫經營,略有盈餘,其道何在?

糧食部之令,如天網恢恢,統制食料之供,仰賴配給之制,舶來之貨亦受限。物價既定,則酒家利潤亦薄。往昔菜譜之豐盛,珍饈之羅列,皆成過往雲煙。庖人唯有於有限之食材中,竭盡所能,巧製佳餚。雖民間以配給券購糧於指定之鋪,然酒肆似另有途徑,可得未配給之物,故富者仍可於館中享用膳食,然其價幾何,則未可知也。

朝廷力倡節約,糧食部長Woolton勳爵明言,奢靡之食,與國人之共艱苦不合時宜。一九四一年,曾欲令酒肆每餐僅供一主菜,可見其意在簡約。更有國營之食肆,名曰「英國餐廳」,以志願者佐理,價廉而富營養,專供戰時勞工及不便自炊之人。此乃官府干預餐飲之舉,於私營之肆,實為一競。

糧食部洞察秋毫,凡所產之物,所舶之貨,所宰之牲,皆在其監管之下。凡商賈欲乘國難而牟取暴利者,皆被視為不忠不義。民人亦警惕物價之飛漲,若有商家哄抬物價,則群情激憤,或有官府干預。

然私營之巧思,亦未曾停歇。酒肆為應時局,各出奇招。沙袋或飾以彩繪,與店堂相協;遮光板亦成揮灑之處。歌舞昇平之所,依舊人氣不減,可見民人於戰時亦有尋樂之需。雖有宵禁之令,初時僅允關乎國計民生之業開張,然酒肆亦能於規章之內,擇時經營。然亦有不法之徒,假「會所」之名,高價欺客,尤以軍人為甚。

求存之道,在於善用非配給之物,如蔬果魚肉麵包等,以此為膳食之主。亦有酒肆專營特定之客,如軍營附近之肆,或富人聚居之地。雖黑市交易為法所不容,然亦有傳聞,為求佳餚,或有暗地購置禁品者,其價自是不菲。

簡樸之食,反成時髦。凡不費配給之物,如素菜淡飯,反能降低成本,亦合乎官府之意。國營食肆之盛行,正可見此類膳食之需求。精打細算,物盡其用,亦為持家之道。縱食材有限,亦可憑藉廚藝,化腐朽為神奇。

雖戰時艱苦,民人仍有社交之需,酒肆茶坊,遂成難得之休憩之所。縱無盛宴華筵,然一室之溫馨,亦可慰藉人心。善於經營者,或可於物價管制之內,巧定價錢,招徠顧客,維持生計。顧客之惠顧,亦為酒肆之恆產。

綜上所述,戰時京華酒肆之能存,非僥倖也,乃變通之功,應時之策,以及經營者之巧思。雖受糧食部之嚴控,然其能於困境中求生存,足見私營之韌性與活力。於國難之時,亦為京華庶民,提供一處喘息之所,其功亦不可沒也。

Wartime Plates: How London's Restaurants Survived the Ministry of Food

 

Wartime Plates: How London's Restaurants Survived the Ministry of Food

World War II cast a long shadow over every aspect of British life, and the culinary landscape was no exception. For London's restaurants, the Ministry of Food's stringent policies presented unprecedented challenges, forcing them to navigate a world of rationing, price controls, and a national mood of austerity. Yet, amidst these restrictions, private enterprise found ways to adapt, innovate, and even turn a profit, demonstrating remarkable resilience in the face of wartime adversity.

The Ministry's grip on food supply was absolute. Rationing and import regulations dictated what ingredients were available, while price controls capped what restaurateurs could charge. Gone were the days of lavish menus boasting exotic ingredients. Instead, chefs had to become masters of improvisation, crafting meals from a limited palette of staples. While individual citizens queued with their ration books, restaurants operated within a parallel system, seemingly with access to some unrationed foods that allowed wealthier patrons to enjoy meals beyond their personal allowances. This suggests a tiered system, where those with means could still experience a semblance of pre-war dining, albeit likely at a higher cost.

The government actively discouraged culinary extravagance. Lord Woolton, the Minister of Food, made it clear that opulent dining was out of step with the national spirit of sacrifice. An attempt in 1941 to limit restaurants to a single main dish per meal underscored this push towards simplicity. Adding to the competitive pressure was the establishment of British Restaurants – state-run, volunteer-staffed eateries offering cheap and nutritious meals, particularly for war workers. These non-profit establishments provided a stark contrast to private ventures and catered to a significant portion of the population seeking affordable sustenance.

Under the watchful eye of the Ministry, which meticulously tracked food production and imports, "profiteering" became a deeply unpatriotic act. The public, too, acted as vigilant guardians against price gouging, ready to voice their anger at any perceived exploitation. This environment of scrutiny undoubtedly kept most businesses in check, fostering a sense of shared sacrifice, at least publicly.

However, the spirit of private enterprise was not easily extinguished. Restaurants, ever attuned to customer desires, found creative ways to navigate the restrictions. Sandbags were painted to blend with décor, and blackout shutters became canvases for artistic expression. Notably, establishments with cabarets and dance floors remained popular, indicating a continued demand for leisure and social interaction, even amidst the war. People still sought an escape, and restaurants, within the confines of curfews and licensing regulations, provided a vital outlet. These regulations, which initially prioritized essential businesses, gradually adapted to allow some entertainment venues to operate, albeit under strict conditions.

Behind the scenes, the economic realities of survival necessitated shrewd business practices. Restaurants focused on unrationed foods like fresh produce, fish, and bread, building their menus around these more readily available items. They catered to specific groups, such as servicemen with better rations or wealthier individuals seeking a meal out. While officially condemned, the thriving black market likely provided some establishments with access to scarce ingredients, albeit at a considerable risk and cost.

The key to profitability lay in embracing the Ministry's call for simpler fare. By offering less luxurious dishes that minimized the use of rationed items like meat, butter, and sugar, restaurants could better manage their limited supplies and adhere to price controls. Careful portion control and the resourceful use of every ingredient became essential. The very success of the basic, affordable meals served in British Restaurants highlighted a significant market for this type of unpretentious cooking.

Despite the limitations, restaurants continued to serve a crucial social function. They offered a sense of normalcy and a place for people to connect, providing a welcome respite from the anxieties of wartime and the drudgery of home cooking. While extensive menus and opulent surroundings were largely relics of the past, the fundamental human desire for a meal out and social interaction ensured a steady, albeit regulated, stream of customers. By strategically adjusting prices within the allowed parameters and cultivating a regular clientele, many restaurants managed to not only survive but also to generate income in a world dramatically altered by war.

In conclusion, the story of London's restaurants during World War II is a testament to the adaptability and resilience of private enterprise. While the Ministry of Food's policies imposed significant constraints, these businesses, through a combination of resourcefulness, innovation, and a keen understanding of wartime demands, managed to navigate the challenges and continue serving the people of London, albeit with a distinctly wartime flavour. They proved that even under the most restrictive circumstances, the entrepreneurial spirit could find a way to not just endure, but to contribute to the social fabric of a nation at war.

2025年3月25日 星期二

倫敦豪宅之盛:豈為慶賀,實乃世間惶恐之徵

 

倫敦豪宅之盛:豈為慶賀,實乃世間惶恐之徵

彼等謂之「倫敦豪宅之盛」。聽之若億萬富豪之新粟米片,曰:「以一巨碗鍍金之片,佐以水煮熊貓卵,始爾一日!」然諸君且慢,此非可喜之事,乃徵兆也。何之徵兆?巨富階層之集體驚悸也!

文稱「極品豪宅」紛紛湧入倫敦,棄其摩納哥之遊艇,留其漢普頓之華廈以蒙塵。何故?蓋美國忽焉失寵也!似我那性情難測之總統,天佑之,已使股市之變幻,若貓之逐激光點,而加稅之物,自魚子醬以至紙板箱,無所不包。頃刻之間,倫敦望之若諾克斯堡,唯茶更勝之。

今人或謂,非居籍改革當能卻此輩乎?減免稅賦?天乎!然不然,彼等仍至。非為金錢也,乃無他所可往耳。猶如巨富之擊鼓傳花,普京既絆倒眾人,倫敦乃餘下之末席也。

「保資勝於增長」,彼等云。何其婉言!意謂富者皆懼也!彼等若松鼠之藏堅果以備核冬,將其財貨囤積於華麗之寓所。甚華麗之核冬也,地暖而侍者諳熟寡頭之語。

「美國之困境為之催化」……此乃最妙之處!我等竟成世界之警示也!「觀乎爾曹所選之真人秀明星,其結果若何?」今人皆奔走倫敦,手持珠串與資產,低語曰:「至少彼處有皇室,且天氣尚可……」(彼嗤之以鼻)。天氣尚可!於倫敦乎!此乃最可悲之處也。

而「極品豪宅之市,較諸國中餘地,猶能支撐」,自然也!當尋常英人尚且難以負擔一包薯片之資,百分之一之人已在購置整街之房產。猶如觀乎救生艇駛離鐵達尼號,而樂隊仍奏「我心永恆」……唯香檳更多,冰山更少耳。

「暫時之泡沫乎?」君可盡信之!待世事平息,此等鍍金之蝗蟲將飛往他處之新奇之物,徒留一地之高價閣樓,與一眾茫然之房地產經紀人。

故曰,慶賀倫敦之盛乎?吾以為不然。此非繁榮之象,乃全球恐慌之徵也。且循恐慌之舊例,其結局或將有眾人身著甚昂貴之救生衣,而不知肉汁船之所往。富者非逃離鐵達尼號,彼等不過盡購救生艇之專營權耳。與此同時,吾之曼哈頓何在?!

London's Super-Prime Boom, they call it...


"London's Super-Prime Boom, they call it. Sounds like a new cereal for billionaires. 'Start your day with a heaping bowl of gilded flakes and a side of poached panda egg!' But hold on, folks, because this isn't a celebration, it's a symptom. A symptom of what? Mass hysteria among the mega-rich!

"The article tells us the 'super-primes' are flocking to London, leaving their yachts in Monaco and their Hamptons mansions to gather dust. Why? Because the USA is suddenly...unfashionable! Seems our capricious President, bless his heart, has made the stock market as predictable as a cat chasing a laser pointer and slapped tariffs on everything from caviar to cardboard boxes. Suddenly, London looks like Fort Knox, except with better tea.

"Now, you'd think non-dom reforms would scare these folks away. Less tax avoidance? Heavens to Murgatroyd! But no, they're still coming. It's not about the money, see. It's about having nowhere else to go. It's like musical chairs for billionaires, and London's the last chair left standing after Putin tripped everyone else.

"'Capital preservation over growth,' they say. What a euphemism! It means the rich are terrified! They're hoarding their money in luxury apartments like squirrels burying nuts before a nuclear winter. A very fancy nuclear winter, mind you, with heated floors and a concierge who speaks fluent oligarch.

"The USA's troubles as a catalyst... This is the best part! We've become the world's cautionary tale! 'See what happens when you elect a reality TV star?' Now everyone's running to London, clutching their pearls and their portfolios, whispering, 'At least they have royalty and reasonable weather...' (He snorts). Reasonable weather! In London! That's the saddest part of all.

"And of course, the super-prime market is 'holding up better than the rest of the country.' Naturally! While the average Brit is struggling to afford a packet of crisps, the one percent is buying up entire city blocks. It's like watching a lifeboat drift away from the Titanic while the band keeps playing 'My Heart Will Go On'... but with more champagne and fewer icebergs.

"A temporary bubble? You bet your bottom dollar! When the world calms down, these gilded locusts will fly off to the next shiny thing, leaving behind a trail of overpriced penthouses and a whole lot of bewildered real estate agents.

"So, celebrate the London boom? I think not. It's not a sign of prosperity, it's a sign of global panic. And in the grand tradition of panic, it's probably going to end with a lot of people wearing very expensive life jackets and wondering where all the gravy boats went. The rich are not fleeing the Titanic. They just bought out the whole lifeboat franchise. Meanwhile, where is my manhattan?!"